KAZUMI SAKAMOTO

The fashion designer makes sustainable creations for "hot girls with brains."

My mom is big on fashion. She loves buying clothes, buying watches, buying sunglasses, everything. I think she is one of the biggest influences I have in my life — to know that you gotta wake up and present yourself in the way that you want to. You are not always gonna wear the same clothes; you're going to change.

This is something she taught me and, as a very depressed teenager, clothing was the only thing that kind of got me through the day — a drive for me to get out of bed and then put on something that makes me look hot and go outside. Some people put on makeup, some people put on perfume, some people have to have coffee. The only thing that excited me was clothing.

"Some people put on makeup, some people put on perfume, some people have to have coffee. The only thing that excited me was clothing."

I was not very enthusiastic about academics. My grades were fine, but nothing really excited me. I liked literature and history, but that's about it. I’ve painted my whole life and I played piano, but I didn't see how I could make a living out of that or how I could have passion for it for a really long time.

Also, my mom took fashion design courses when she lived in Japan — that’s how she met my father — but she never really got into it after school. So I think that my biggest inspiration is that my mom did this.

They’re not like traditional Asian parents who are like, “Get a computer science degree.” Well, my dad did say that to me. But I'm like, “No, do you see how many computers I've ruined in the past two years?” I didn't see anything else that I would want to do.

I went to an international school in Shanghai where everyone is going to either Europe, Japan, or America for college. One of my best friends at the time was going to school in Long Island, and I don't drive. I can’t see myself driving anywhere or learning another language, meaning that I didn’t want to go to Europe. So the only place I would want to go to is probably New York. It just made sense to me in my head. And I was like, Okay, I watched so much Project Runway when I was a kid, so let me go to New York. Also Gossip Girl, unfortunately.

I went to FIT for fashion design, and I feel like school was a time where I explored a lot of who I was as a designer. Who's my market? Who do I want to dress? Who's my inspiration? What does my brand say, or how do I want people to feel in my clothes? So I think after I figured those things out, everything else just came very naturally to me.

Present SS22

I want to make clothes that I will wear and my friends will wear. You can dress up or dress down. In terms of New York, it definitely had a big influence. It’s not so much about what the city looks like or something that's tangible in terms of architecture or anything like that. It's the energy, I think, and also the community I'm in — like, the queer and beautiful people who are all creative and trying to make something. Everyone is inspiring each other and motivating each other to achieve our dreams.

***

When the lockdown first happened, I was at home. I was very bored and I was still working at a startup fashion company where I didn't feel like I really belonged. Through the excess amount of time granted by this very tragic time, I refocused and just thought, Oh my God, there's nothing I can do. Let me stay in the present, and then let's do something about this. So since I can't really go outside and all, the materials are all scraps I had in the past.

The name, Present SS22, is a double entendre. We all just went through the lockdown. It seems like it’s in the past, but — considering the timeline of my project — it was only about two years ago. Everything I use in this collection is either upcycled, like scraps I had from school or gifted fabrics from prior jobs or internships, or just certain fabrics I found from vintage sources. So it's mostly upcycled.

The meaning of present is, for one thing, to stay in the present. The other thing is that the present is a gift. So when you're actually staying in the present, I feel like that's the biggest gift you can give to yourself. Working on this collection was very emotional for me. I think it was a very emotional time for everybody during lockdown. You don't see people, you don't talk to people, but it was a great time to reconnect with yourself. I found that period of time was a huge gift or present to myself. So that was the major inspiration behind this collection. It’s just self-reflecting.

"I found that period of time was a huge gift or present to myself. So that was the major inspiration behind this collection."

After I quit my job, I knew there was going to be only a limited amount of time for me to stay in the US. So I thought, How do I make the most out of this time? Looking at the scraps I have, everything has its own memories.

Also, just reminiscing about all of the times I had in New York — knowing that it's not over, but it has an expiration date to it — I started to think about, What do I want to say with this collection? And that’s when I came up with my collection philosophy:

Present is a reflection of exploration of self-love. Birthed in the time of COVID-19 pandemic isolation 2020. Through unlearning patriarchy and nourishing self-worth/acceptance, one finding celebration in time with gratitude that transmits. A realization of being present is the gift when forgoing external validation.

What do I feel when I think of self-love? Which fabrics speak to me the most or feel good on my skin, or just visually look like love or a tender feeling?

Present SS22

I think the color palette or the fabrics would remind you of something you have at home. Table cloths, curtains, couches — a lot of texture. And since everything is scraps, a lot of things in this collection feel like home, like my studio. I think that’s how I found my fabrics. They were something that spoke to me, something that felt like comfort and a representation of me in my home during that time.

***

I’ve always loved fashion and, having a very glam mother, she didn't care about sustainability. She didn't learn about sustainability. That's not something we ever talked about growing up.

I think what switched in my head was when I heard a couple years back that the Great Barrier Reef is dying. I saw the pictures of all the beautiful sea creatures turning white. I think that was the moment that made me really, really sad. I cried. I was like, Why am I so emotional right now?

It’s just us, as human beings, overconsuming and really just not doing our part and then wondering why all the other living beings are dying. I think that was the switch in my head that got me into learning more about environmentalism and what sustainability actually means because everyone says, “Oh, we are sustainable,” like H&M and Zara, but what does that mean to them?

***

As a designer for my own brand, it's still the same shit: money. What can you do? I have to find side jobs to support my main passion.

I think most international students can probably relate — you have less job opportunities because of your visa status. A lot of companies don't have the money or they are just unable to just sponsor you to stay in the state, even if they are willing to.

"I think most international students can probably relate — you have less job opportunities because of your visa status."

And if you want to stay in the States, you have to have an artist visa. If you're not as established as an artist or in this field, it's really hard to get that visa. It's also a lot of money.

As a designer, I would say finding a job that really just keeps you going creatively is a challenge because, at the end of the day, you're still designing for other people.

I'm not saying that's not a fun thing or you don't gain experience from it. But I think when you can spend years learning from a place that you admire or feel inspired from or that you respect — if you have that kind of opportunity, it's really amazing; but that doesn't happen for everyone.

I had the privilege of learning things from a lot of amazing people that I met through internships or through my job. But at the end of the day, it was my visa that was what kept me thinking like, You know what? I have to go.

***

I just moved to Berlin, and I'm gonna do the same thing; I want to finish another collection here. My friend is a very talented stylist, so we will do a collaboration together and then make another collection before I have to head back to Asia.

I'm still contemplating where I should base my business; 80 percent of my mind is set on launching my business in Asia. That's why I'm taking my time to travel, meet more people, and experience life a little more before I settle down in one place to further my business or my brand.

***

I've joked about this with my friends, but the joke is actually pretty accurate. I think my design philosophy is “hot girls with brains.” Although when I say girls, it doesn't necessarily mean women. It can be anyone who's femme.

"I just want to make someone feel empowered in my clothes, and just feel hot."

I think there will be gender neutral pieces, but a lot of my clothes are more femme-representing. I don't care who my customer is. If you want to rock it, please rock it. If a bro comes into the store and tells me that he wants to wear that to the club, I'll be like, “Yes, please do!” I just want to make someone feel empowered in my clothes, and just feel hot.

As told to Michaela Zee

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity. All images courtesy of Kazumi Sakamoto.

Image Credits

Director: Joyce Keokham

Director of Photography: William Wu